'Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.' -JOHN JONES, SURFER MAGAZINE 'Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike.' -BILL SMITH, THE LOS ANGELES TIMES